The R&T Extra!   August 2006

The Cut Above: A History of Leaded Glass Crystal and Swarovski®

Sophisticated glass beads date back to at least the 3rd century BCE. Leaded glass crystal, however, is a relatively recent phenomenon. Its inventor George Ravenscroft first established a London glasshouse in 1673. It was not until 1676, however, that he first added lead oxide to the silica (sand) mix, creating a softer and more sparkly glass. The advantage of a softer glass is that it is easier to cut and facet; the advantage of a more sparkly glass is – well, added sparkle!

Ravenscroft patented his process for making "flint glass," and in the 1700s England's crystal production soared. Government taxes, however, began to hurt the industry and many crystal-makers moved to Ireland (then a British colony), where they could avoid the extra taxes. Famous Waterford crystal began and thrived in Ireland during this time. By the mid to late 1800s, crystal manufacturers began to thrive elsewhere as well, including Baccarat (France), Orrefors (Sweden) and Steuben (the United States).

While these manufacturers focused on creating decorative and functional glassware for the household, the Austrian company Swarovski (founded in 1895) focused on making crystal for the fashion and jewelry-making industries. The company's founder, Daniel Swarovski, was born in 1862 in Bohemia (then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, now part of the Czech Republic). Bohemia was – and still is – a major glass and crystal-making center. Daniel apprenticed in the industry, hand cutting leaded glass. After visiting the Elektrische Ausstellung (First Electrical Exhibition) in Vienna as a young adult, Daniel began to experiment with the then newly tamed power source. In 1892, after nine years of work, he patented the first machine to cut crystal.

Machine-cut glass meant not only faster, but also more precise, production, and the invention revolutionized the industry. Daniel moved his new company from Bohemia to the town of Wattens in the Austrian Alps. Here, there was enough water to run energy-intensive machines using hydroelectricity. The location was also isolated from competitors, yet close enough to trade routes to get goods safely to Paris, the center of European fashion. Thus the Swarovski success story began.

Swarovski hasn't been involved in just the fashion industry, though. Between 1915 and the mid-1950s, the company developed in many directions, including creation of new grinding and dressing tools, development of the world's first roadway reflector lights and production of binoculars. These innovations kept the company afloat during both World Wars. Today, the Swarovski Group includes Tyrolit (tools), Swareflex (reflectors), Signity (synthetic gemstones) and Swarovski Optik (optical precision instruments).

By the mid-20th century, Swarovski was able to refocus on fashion and high society. The company soon became a leading supplier of crystals not only for jewelry and clothing, but also for opulent chandeliers, still found in performing arts centers, museums and monarch's castles. In the 1970s, the company became a major supplier of Moodstones (remember those?) and began its line of figurines. Today, Swarovski remains on the cutting edge. In 1994 the company developed the Xilion cut, a rearrangement of facets that refracts even more light.

At Rings & Things, we're happy to offer you a wide range of Swarovski crystal products, including beads, charms, pendants and prisms. In addition to our permanent line, we currently offer several varieties of vintage Swarovski – including shapes and styles dating back to the 1950s. These items are no longer in production and are limited to stock on hand.

What's in a Shape? New Trillion Gemstone Donuts

We now offer trillion (triangle-cut) donut pendants in 11 gemstone varieties! But why are they called "trillion" donuts? The word trillion comes from Old French, tri- meaning three and -(m)ilion meaning to make greater or more numerous (than a thousand, or mille). In jewelry making, the term is most often used to describe a cut found on diamonds. This cut contains multiple facets on both the crown and pavilion. Our new donuts more closely fit a looser description of a trillion cut: a triangular-shaped gemstone in which the three sides are slightly bowed, as opposed to straight-edged, and the points are rounded. In other words, our triangle donuts are puffed, not flat. Sleek and simply elegant, they'll make great centerpieces for anything you can imagine!

But what's in a triangle? More than you might think! This simple, geometric shape has held multiple symbolic meanings over thousands of years. Today, the shape has meaning for countless groups, from religious communities to secret societies, political activists to ground-to-air safety crews. We even use it on road signs and dashboard buttons.

Triangles are not found in the earliest human art of the Stone Age. They had become prominent, however, by the 4th century BCE – at least in the minds of mathematicians and philosophers (remember grueling through the Pythagorean theorem in math class?). The ancient philosopher Xenocrates is quoted as saying the triangle shape symbolizes God, an idea which remains today in the Christian idea of the Trinity as well as other belief systems. Six-pointed stars are created from the combination of an upward-facing triangle (traditionally representing masculinity, the heavens, activity, danger/warning) and a downward facing triangle (traditionally representing femininity, the earth, and passivity). Combined, these opposing forces are said to create unity.

Architecturally, three supports are the minimum needed to provide a stable physical structure. And in philosophy the triangle has also played a role. Notable is G.W.H. Hegel's idea of dialectical movement (depicted as a triangle – see illustration). A dialectical process is one in which two opposing ideas or forces (thesis and antithesis) confront each other and, as a result, create a third, new, idea or force (resolution). This theory of causation has been influential in economic and political theories since the 19th century.

Whatever triangles may symbolize for you, we know you'll have fun playing with our new trillion donuts. Use them as centerpieces for your jewelry – or try one out as a worry stone to carry in your pocket. Available in 11 different gemstones, we're confident you'll find a color and pattern that works for you!

To read more about the physical and metaphysical properties of gemstones, check out our Gemstone Index.

Toho Elegance Takes Time, Offers Much

Rings & Things product testers found that Toho Elegant Jewelry Kits are not intended for raw beginners. The Toho-defined difficulty of these elegant kits starts at level two, which requires an intermediate level of jewelry-making experience. The first time you try an Elegant Jewelry Kit, it is likely to take roughly two to three times the suggested time frame, but the resulting techniques you'll gain for creating intricate filigree designs are worth the time. Plus, once you become familiar with the style of weaving beads onto the filigrees, we expect the process will go more quickly.

The Victorian style of the resulting jewelry components had our product testers drooling and dying to make more. A secure working area is recommended, because there are no replacement parts available. Some product testers chose to replace some basic kit findings (head and eye pins, jump rings) with their own preferred finishes or gauges. Rings & Things does not guarantee that the gemstones included are natural or otherwise untreated.

A basic beading instruction book will be helpful when working with these kits. We recommend The Beader's Companion as a useful complement to kit instructions as it offers full-color images of different findings, cords and beads. The Beader's Companion also provides a comprehensive text glossary.

To assure you have all components necessary, Toho recommends an inventory of components before beginning. Our product testers found Toho's "extra tips" to be very helpful in constructing the kit and in all jewelry making. Completion of these kits will require time, patience and good hand/eye coordination.

Rings & Things Employee Spotlight: Joshua Hill

Just as we want to get to know you – our customers – we thought you'd enjoy getting to know us too! That's why we now offer bimonthly employee spotlights highlighting the people that work behind the scenes to maintain Rings &Things' great products, prices and services for you. Our first featured employee is showroom assistant manager Joshua Hill. Here's what he has to say in his own words:

R&T: When did you first start working at R&T?
Joshua: November 4th, 2004.

R&T: What is your position/role at R&T?
Joshua: Assistant Showroom Manager.

R&T: Describe your job or work history at R&T.
Joshua: I enter new orders into the system, and pull orders [pick physical items] to be sent out. I also invoice orders. Working in the showroom is the best way to interact with Rings & Things' customers. It gives us [showroom employees] a chance to see actual designs that have been created with our products.

R&T: Have you ever designed anything?
Joshua: I have made a necklace and matching bracelet out of aventurine and garnet. The pendant has an aventurine "base" and a garnet bead added at the top. Perfection!

R&T: What's your favorite part about working for R&T?
Joshua: The other employees here, the location and the atmosphere.

R&T: Say something about your kids or family (optional)?
Joshua: I've got three nieces, and one nephew.

R&T: What are your hobbies?
Joshua: Football, and I'm a movie critic.

R&T: Can you maybe say more about movies - favorite movie, favorite kind of movie, etc.?
Joshua: To say a favorite movie would be to list my entire movie library (impossible). But, a good movie in my eye is, one that tells – in detail – about the characters, situations and circumstances to bring the movie as a whole together in your mind.

R&T: What's the last book you read?
Joshua: Halo, the first book.

R&T: What's the last movie you saw?
Joshua: The Chronicles of Narnia.

R&T: What's a favorite saying of yours?
Joshua: "Arrrt!" which means "alright then."

R&T: What's your favorite R&T stock item?
Joshua: The gemstone Malachite.

Thanks!

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